丹麦时装新闻一瞥

蜡相

CPH Vision in the fashion front



Photos by Mikael Hjuler




The CPH Vision fair at Øksnehallen is a beautiful, smaller, venue, where most of the most important and interesting Danish designers exhibit. At the CPH Vision fashion show, which Crown Princess Mary also attended, the steadily fashion-rising label, Cash, impressed with a lovely tweed jacket with a leather belt and Muus with a leopard printed rabbit jacket to a black/beige/white striped satin skirt. So did seal Whiite’s pretty knit and jackets and coats from Great Greenland – very hip dyed deep shiny black. Utzon’s pale beige fur coats bordered with fox fur also lived up to the Danish reputation of fine fur design.



The competition amongst designers is growing worlwide. Also with within the most important group of Danish designers, where several of the established great Danish labels held their shows at spectacular venues

在Øksnehallen举行的CPH 时尚展，是相对较小，但是非常重要的丹麦设计师的盛会。玛丽公主出席CPH展览。斜纹软尼，精美皮带， 兔皮夹克，与黑米白相间的斜纹裙子交相辉映。

比赛的设计师来自世界各地， 和一些重要的设计组合。一些著名的品牌同时现展。



A royal opening at CIFF
The fashion conscious, well-dressed Crown Princess Mary is the perfect ambassador for Danish fashion. With a dream figure and an excellent dress sense, quickly acquired since she arrived in Denmark from Tasmania, Australia, where she is born, and with her eager interest in good fashion, she is able to promote Danish design every where she goes and travels. The Crown Princess went to seven of the many shows in Copenhagen during the fashion week. The first was the Trend show at Bella Center, where 838 companies exhibited at 36.00 square metres, where also children’s shows as well as a fur show by the new Danish brand Kopenhagen Fur were staged.
时尚的玛丽公主堪称丹麦时装的代言人。出生在Australia Tasmania的玛丽公主自从来到丹麦，以其优雅的举止和时尚的服饰，迅速赢得丹麦时尚界的欢迎，所到之处为丹麦的服饰推广不少。


Photo by Claus Starup


Princess material By Malene Birger




Photos by Mikael Hjuler


时尚周的最后是设计师 Malene Birger出场，设计师同时也是UNICEF的大使，在海滨
畔UNICEF展厅的水晶灯下，举行她的设计展览。

And then there is Malene Birger’s lable, By Malene Birger, who closed the fashion week. The designer, who is a good will ambassador for UNICEF; held her show under crystal chandeliers in a UNICEF warehouse on the waterfront. Here the protector for UNICEF Denmark, princess Alexandra, and Crown Princess Mary watched Malene’s latest efforts, as always of excellent taste. The designer has always hailed elegance as a speciality, which this time was expressed with crystal embroideries on shoulders, sleeves and cuffs - a black coat with black jet pearls down the outer sleeve was breathtaking, as were her Salon couture silk dresses – pure princess material. Cardigans, “vintage”-blouses adorned with lace, tweed skirts, coats and dresses had a “sensual librarian- look”- dead right for next winter. And Malene Birger was the only designer during the week, who showed fashion’s current trend, the high waist trousers in the wide Katherine Hepburn style. A definite must-have.

Photo by Mikael Hjuler


Susanne Rützou's beautiful mix




Photos by Mikael Hjuler




Susanne Rützou showed her sure, fine mix of materials, patterns and colours at the old restaurant Nimb in Tivoli. Everything has been added beautiful vintage details, like embroideries, applications and borders. Bohemian Hybrid Susanne this time calls her style of casual 70ies romanticism mixed with simple 50ies and 60ies cuts. The empire line dominates dresses and tops and pleats dances in skirts. Flowers grow up from the seam of coats, skirts and blouses in brown, lilac and soft yellow tones. Miro-circles in lilac and pink and Pucci/Sonja Delaunay figures, called “Wonderland” in pink/lilac/rose/khaki are other new and interesting patterns at Susanne Rützou.




Fabulous Ivan Grundahl

Photos by Mikael Hjuler


No one does fabulous coats better than Ivan Grundahl. This fact was also evident at Grundahl’s show, where a long black coat, reversible to black-striped white, was simply to die for. Between his X asymmetrical signature jackets and skirts with dripping handkerchief hems he showed a X short, white, pleated skirt under a large, white cable knit sweater and fab, wide trousers adorned with pockets and zips down the outer seam.

A trip to Spain with DAY
Day Birger et Mikkelsen had taken a trip to Vienna’s Spanish riding School. The Crown Princess in the first row witnessed designer Michala Wiesneck’s high-waist toreador pants in black velour with Spanish embroideries on pockets or down the trouser leg, which looked very nice with capes and jackets, especially with a green China silk jacket. Full volume skirts with pretty embroideries lived up to fashions present trends while Indian embroideries still shone on blouses, tops and skirts. Day’s new men’s designer, Frederik Dyhr, showed how pale or colourful patterned men’s long jackets looked great with new, narrower, trouser legs.



Photos by Tine Harden

The trendiest trends




Photos by Mikael Hjuler




The trends for next winter as researched by the Parisian trend expert, Nelly Rodi, express moods and opinions where architecture, art and all kinds of design melts into the current fashion trend – religions, voodoo and rituals, where patterns are influenced by graffiti, graphics, martial arts and ethnic tribes. “Mock snob”: Boho romanticism. A play with traditions, English look, tweed, brown, tea-time and gardens - an eccentric, crazy mix of aristocracy and working class, of Bloomsbury and Teddy boys, of colours and forms. The “On the Road” theme means USA, freedom, a relaxed mixture of East and the Wild West, the 50ties re-styled, retro advertisements, James Dean, “Easy Rider” and Harley Davidson. Finally is “Soft Baroque” which stands for Hollywood stars, transparent, crystals, divas, jewels, sophisticated luxury. In soft, flowing materials.

The themes were well expressed on the runway. Amongst others a brocade jacket with fox fur lapels and cuffs by Adelsten and a black, white embroidered skirt by Créton which envisaged the “Soft Baroque” theme. “On the Road” interpreted by Kryos’ rose/beige rabbit fur jacket embroidered with sequins to denim jeans by In Wear. And a lilac waistcoat from Skovhuus and black trousers with zips and pockets from Ivan Grundahl expressed the “Action Tribe” theme.




A new strategy by Inwear

In Wear has collaborated with Stephen Fairchild as head of the company’s design team in order to get the 36 year old brand back on track. Fairchild managed to inject real newness into the label, which, at the new Opera House, presented a great collection beautifully in accordance with fashion’s current trend of casual elegance. The collection is aimed at the 29+ city men and women, who are style conscious, and who aims at life’s more extraordinary experiences, which also includes theatre, opera and ballet. Jackets, coats and laid back ladylike dresses – like a lilac flowered chiffon dress - all were excellent examples of to-day’s fashion. A black empire crepe dress tied in the back, were pure original Balenciaga and an exact mirror of the trend shown on the London fashion stage the week after.




Marvellous Martinique

IC Companys’ men’s wear line, Matinique, also contained great clothes. For day-time as well as for evening with velour being the new in-material. Shining in beautiful colours like wine or midnight blue as well as grey and black and being used in both suits and jackets, the latter being mixed with contrasting trouser colours and accentuated with colourful striped shirts and T-shirts

IC公司的马丁尼同样包含优秀服饰。 酒红和湛蓝，灰白近来成为塑造西装和夹克的颜色。 后者混和对比鲜明的裤子的颜色，同时点缀斑纹和色彩鲜明的衬衫和T恤。



The darker side of Munthe plus Simonsen

Photos by Helle Moos




Even Munthe plus Simonsen took a different and darker approach to their design. Between their embellished fairy tale signature embroideries they showed layers of greys in sweaters and skirts and added fantastic fur stoles cut into narrow stripes. - As well as beautiful slender coats with tone-in-tone embroidery only on the top of the back and the front.

[ 本帖最后由 蜡相 于 2005-7-9 02:54 编辑 ]

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